Slope Roof

The shingled roof on your home or business is made up of numerous components:

Ice & Water Shield

Ice & Water Shield is a product that comes in a roll. The back side has a release sheet/paper that protects a “sticky” asphalt surface. The release paper is peeled of as the product is unrolled and the “sticky” side is placed onto the roof’s plywood deck. The ice & water shield “bonds” into the plywood forming a membrane that protects the plywood from exposure to ice and water. The sticky membrane also seals nails as they come through the shingles to fasten your roofing down. This material is in 36″ wide sheets and is a State of Michigan building code requirement. If your roof already has ice and water shield applied under the shingles, many roofing companies will simply re-use the existing one even though it has dried out and is full of nail holes from the previous roof. Neighborhood Roofing ALWAYS installs new Ice & Water Shield to your roof.

Thermal Seal Shingle Starter Shingles:

Thermal Seal Shingle starter shingles are specifically designed to be used to start the shingles on the eave edge and to seal the shingles on the rake edges (gable ends). These shingles have a double row of roof mastic that seals the edges from wind uplift. Many roofing companies save money by using left over shingles cut into strips as starter shingles. Neighborhood Roofing always uses G.A.F. starter shingles.

Shingle Underlayment (Synthetic Membrane) TAM-SHIELD 6 mil U.L. Ready Synthetic Underlayment

In the past, roofing companies use “black paper” as a covering to separate a reaction between the asphalt content in shingles from the pine/pitch in plywood. While most roofing companies still use this paper underlayment, roofing manufacturer’s have developed synthetic underlayments that can be an integral piece of your roof’s complete design. Quality synthetic underlayments form a base ply for your roof serving to:

• Protect the deck and your home from blowing rain/water
• Drifting snow: Attics are well insulated and snow stays on your roof longer.
• Ice back up: Snow will melt as winter temperatures fluctuate. As it re-freezes along the roof, ice will form under your shingles. If the ice backs up on your roof above the ice shield, it will leak through the black paper and synthetic underlayments.

Factory Finished Metal Eave and Rake Edge

Metal edge is fastened to your roof’s edges. It protects the roof deck (wood/plywood/O.S.B.) from rain and snow. It also directs water into the gutters. Properly installed drip edge directs water into the gutters. Improperly installed drip edge allow water to run behind the gutters and over the wood fascia board causing streaks, stains, and eventually concealed rotted wood fascia. We use a 1 1/2″ Aluminum drip edge on shingle replacements. 1 1/2″ is longer than standard drip edge and is used to help cover and protect the area where the roof deck (plywood or roof boards) meets the wood fascia (where the gutter is mounted). This additional protection helps prevent water and ice that get behind the gutter from entering the overhang through that joint.

Triple Coated Barbed Galvanized Roofing Nails

Quality roofing nails have been coated 3 different times to insure that they don’t rust. 6 Roofing nails are put through each shingles in a specific location on the shingle. This positioning holds the shingle together and gives the shingle a 130 mph wind blow off protection. Nails are put in using a pneumatic roofing nail gun. The guns are set for a specific pressure with each nail being put in straight and exactly the right depth.

Roof Ventilation products: Ridge Vent, Power Vent, Edge Vent, Flash Vent, Static Box Vent

Each style/type of roof vent has a specific application. Each roof vent has a numeric value that states the volume of air that it allows. This value is stated in the “NET FREE VENT AREA.” A home must have a minimum of one square foot NET FREE VENT AREA for every 300 square feet of the foot-print of the house. In Michigan, it is strongly recommended that there be one square foot of vent area as exhaust (roof vent) and one square foot of intake air (overhang or eave vent). Adding more is better than having less.

Hip and Ridge Cap (Thermal Seal)

Hip and ridge shingles are designed to be bent over the ridge without the mat or the face cracking. Using the same shingle as is installed on the roof may save a few dollars, but they will crack, fail, and blow away.

Metal Wall Flashings

Wherever the roof meets a wall, there should be a metal flashing inserted under the siding or unto the brick. On a sidewall, the flashing is “stepped” under the shingles and doesn’t show to an untrained eye. On a downward slope, there is an “apron” flashing that is installed under the siding/brick and flows smoothly onto the top layer of shingles. In all cases, the old flashings on the roof should be removed and replaced with new flashings. Flashings cannot have nails driven through them – they will leak. Most roofing companies simply cover the old flashings and seal them in place with a neat application of roofing cement. Some companies conceal the roof cement with colored granules. Old wall flashings that have been covered and sealed in place are the #1 cause of leaks.

Custom Chimney Flashing, Counter Flashings, and Chimney Cap Repairs

A chimney is a movable joint in your roof. The chimney is fastened to the house and the roof is fastened to the rafters/trusses. There is constant movement at that joint. The flashing that keeps water from running into your home through this joint is very important and can be a constant point of frustration for many homeowners. A correct flashing is in two pieces: Step flashing is installed under the headlap of each shingle and is bent to lay against the chimney. Next a counter flashing is installed into a raglet/slot that we cut into the chimney brick. A custom formed aluminum counter flashing is installed into the raglet. The counter flashing is anchored in place with stainless steel pins. Most roofers will simply add a flat counter flashing and caulk it to the brick which requires continual maintenance, looks awful from build up of caulk/roof cement, and still allows water to penetrate through mortar joints and porous brick.

Silicone Rubber Plumbing Collars

The plumbing in your house (sink, shower/bath, toilet, washing machine, dishwasher etc.) requires a breather pipe that allows air to escape as water runs down a drain. That pipe(s) can be identified by looking for either a black cast iron pipe or a white plastic pipe sticking through your roof. There is a flashing collar around that pipe that keeps rain water from running down the pipe and back into your home. That flashing has a number of names but it’s a flashing boot for the soil pipe. In general, there are 3 types available:

1) Thermo-plastic is very common. It’s made out of black plastic with a flexible plastic collar that stretches around the pipe.

2) Metal is a better solution but still uses plastic to stretch around the pipe. Metal can be aluminum, copper, or steel. The issue with the plastic boot that stretches around the pipe is that it only last 8-10 years. After that period, they seem to crack and begin to allow water to trickle down the pipe. You won’t see this leak immediately as it’s running between the walls a little bit at a time until the boot totally fails.

3) Kynar coated steel with a silicone rubber seal is the best one. The silicone rubber boots available through Neighborhood Roofing have a 50 year factory warranty and also qualify for our G.A.F. Golden Pledge Warranty. They are expensive but they will last as for long as your roof lasts

Asphalt/Fiberglass Roof Shingles (Climate Zone Specific)

Our Southern Michigan climate zone is about as harsh on building products as is found anywhere on our planet. The temperatures in our area range from -25 degrees in the winter to just over 100 degrees during the summer. Our winters produce 50″+ of snow and ice (over 80″ during 2013-2014) and 60+ MPH winds. Roofing shingles take the full brunt of these exterior forces. In addition, the summer temperatures inside of an improperly ventilated attic, can exceed 165 degrees. High temperature from both sides results in premature deterioration as the solvents that keep asphalt pliable are baked out of the product.

Certified & Insured:

Factory certified installers and inspectors

Contractor liability insurance (current paid certificates) $1,000,000 per occurrence (minimum)

Auto insurance on all of the contractors vehicles and trailers. ($500,000 per vehicle)

Workman’s compensation

Workman’s compensation that covers all workers and listed to the State of Michigan maximum (current paid certificate from insurance carrier) $500,000 per employee. Beware of contractors that have insurance but has no paperwork offered to you to ensure that their subcontract labor crews have coverage!!

When you decide to replace your roof, all of the above products and services should be included in your contractors roof bid and company certifications.